Travelling back from Sicily went without incident…despite the driving of the Sicilians! However, a two night stop in Pizzo was unfortunate…if you’re ever in SW Italy…don’t bother! Anyhoo, we set forth across Italy to Matera, a place none of us had heard of before but looked interesting. The drive was scenic and bearable for me, in the back (though disappointing not to stop at the many beaches we passed!).We arrived in time to try and stock up and henceforth a wild goose chase ensued, trying to find a supermercato…Our trusty car exhibited his sense of humour, once more, by taking us cross country to a commercial centre, some 10metres off a large road, otherwise known as an autostrada! We then arrived at our home for the next five nights, and were slightly concerned as we were in the middle of a large urban development, that didn’t seem to be anywhere in relation to anything of interest or near to the area that had led us to Matera in the first place.
So, the next morning, we set forth to find the Matera that we had been intrigued by, from the interweb. Some 10 mins later, we were in the middle of a beautiful, bustling street (extremely unusual for a Sunday) and then our jaws remained dropped for some time! This city of cave houses built into the rock face, and it’s history, is remarkable and it came as no surprise that this will be European City of Culture in 2019.
As usual, I was allowed in to shops, restaurants and cafés, however we spent most of our time just wandering the cobbled labyrinthine streets of the Sassi (if one criticism, not enough ball playing spaces!). It turned out that where we were staying was where many people were forcibly rehoused to, from the Sassi, in the 1950s. And it was a perfect, and for now, reasonably priced,location from which to discover this beautiful city.
Then it was time to move onto another place that took our breath away – Pompei(new town) and Pompeii(old town). Getting to our apartment was a little hair-raising, again because of the driving around Napoli, but thankfully we could park our trusty steed away from the mayhem of the road on which we lived. We strolled into the town and there was a magnificent ball playing area just outside the basilica (where there were 10 Masses a day, and MJ didn’t manage to get to a single one!) It was a vibrant place – not really sure of what we were expecting, but it hadn’t been this. Seemed like a place to which we might return in order to use it as a base to explore this region, further, in the future. Old Pompeii was incredible – if only for the fact that I was allowed in, could play ball in the amphitheatre and say hello to the resident stray pooches who reside there.
En route to the entrance, a kindly young lady tried to help us by informing us that the gate to which we were headed was only for groups and that, if we came into her ticket booth, we could have a free map🙄,and as much advice as we needed…at a price! Both Ms were livid – blatant lying to tourists. MJ had to be restrained from going back to let them know the entrance wasn’t just for groups and a few other home truths! Anyhow, a good piece of information was that MN overheard that a vet visits once a month, to make sure that the poor puppies who live in the ruins of Pompeii are healthy,and they seemed cared for, which was heartening. MJ thought we might be there for a couple of hours…Four and a half hours later…and we still didn’t see all of it, though we could see the “villain of the piece”, Vesuvius, in the background, majestically looking down with a slight snowy cap.
After just two nights, it was time to head North again. MJ had consulted Professor Google about “Italy and Christmas lights” and Perugia had come up!
It was perfect – we lived right in the centre,so everything was on our doorstep – the Piazza IV November around the Fontana Maggiore to play ball, the festive lights lining the Corso Vannucci, the National Gallery of Umbria, shops, a tightrope walker,and all played out to a festive playlist that could’ve been compiled by MJ!
The day after we arrived, the Christmas market in the Rocca Paolina started. Pope Paul III took against the leading family of Perugia and instructed a large building be constructed on top of their properties…hence, the Rocca, a fitting place for a Christmas market!
There was almost an international incident when I was let off the lead in some gardens where there was a demonstration for Palestinian Freedom, and so there was some Police presence… It was a miracle there was no fine, as I did my business on the landscaped bit and then did another thing on a Christmas decoration,all in front of a VERY disapproving policewoman! O dear! We managed to get away unscathed!
And so to Bergamo….a stop mainly to do with the presence of Toni&Guy, whoever they are! Anyway, MN & MJ were quite pleased to see them..though not so much afterwards!!! Apparently,hair cuts can be quite stressful…tell me about it,mine gets ripped out of me! Still,despite another questionable wig trim, Bergamo was another revelation. It was about a 30 min walk from where we lived in a bustling neighbourhood, to the Citta Alta. This was another hill top town with breath-taking views from quaint streets, surrounded by Etruscan walls.
And it had the beautiful Piazza Vecchio, in which to play ball with quite a lot of people!
Even policemen dressed as Musketeers took a shine to me!
The Citta Basso, built in the 18th century was also beautiful,and our neighbourhood had everything we needed…including a shop making homemade pasta – Il Pastaficio del Borgo. We decided to purchase the Bergamese pasta, casoncelli – beef-filled pasta – to have on the first eve of the next stop, as we would have guests. In we all went to the shop, and then to top it all, one of the men working there came out to specifically give me a treat! And then they wrapped the pasta all up so beautifully…both Ms were teary; well, it was feeling very Christmassy by then!
Speaking of Christmassy, it was then time to head to the snow, and back to France. This was a particular wrench for MN, as she has decided that she is Italian and has been doing very well with the lingo! But, if we were to be re-united with my big,little, annoying, lovely sisfur, and her Dads, then a la Français, it had to be! The drive was stunning…almost all the way,snow capped mountains to our right as we skirted around Milan and onwards towards Turin and the border. Heading into Chamonix, the trees were heavy with snow, Narnia-like, though the roads were clear,and the skies cobalt blue.
Happy Days! And then there they were! Plus the added extra of Mrs Shirley Nuell, a special guest visiting from Australia! Was lovely to meet her,and my Mums were very pleased to see her, resplendent in flowing, snuggly cape! So, it was drinks and dinner at ours.
I spent most of the next day at Betty’s apartment,whilst the skiers went off, in the fresh powder, and then we had drinks and dinner chez them, too. But that wasn’t before we had gone out to frolic in the snow – it makes me go sooo cheeky!
Then we were off again, this time to Annecy, somewhere we had all been before, but as part of one of our fated road trips with Uncles S&M! So, we were all looking forward to it – and especially the roast chicken stall on the market….well, I had to wait x3 days for that,as the market wasn’t on every day as we had mistakenly thought it would be, being Christmas,and all! Still, it did feel very Christmassy with twinkly lights on bridges, the Christmas market and a sense of excitement in the air.
And as if by magic, we were re-united once more with Miss Bettina and her entourage who were staying x2 nights in Annecy before starting to head back to the UK for Christmas. We enjoyed eating,drinking, shopping,walking,and even playing ball together!
Magical! But then it was time to bid them a fond farewell. The hardest thing was that there’s nothing in the calendar, yet, for us all to meet up next year…..
But then we could turn our attention to hunting and gathering supplies for our White Christmas in Valmorel,and any last minute presents! We had already received secret presents, ordered by my Mums for each other and Husband Parcel Force had brought over a tidy stash of pressies from the Keele girlies, including one for me! Thankfully, it was a short drive to Valmorel,and we managed to get parked not far from our apartment – though it still needed about x6 trips to unpack everything! But then, that was it! We were installed for the Duration! Our Perugian wooden tree was up, dressed and lit, the fairy lights were tastefully arranged,and the balcony was filled with bubbles,wine and even water!
The next day,Christmas Eve, was my Mum’s first in Valmorel so they had to go sort lift passes out,so I could accompany them and check out the main, car-less street. It was very attractive,with many ball playing venues available! I was quite glad when they left me to catch up on my sleep,whilst they acquainted themselves with the piste map. That evening we wandered into the Main Street,above which there was a torch light procession heralding the arrival of Father Christmas/Santa…..by Parapent! MN lifted me up so I could see,and it almost brought a tear to my eye!(Mums both blubbed, obviously!) So, before you could blink, it was Christmas Day!! I had a bit of a lie in whilst there was kerfuffle, rustling of paper, squealing and general merriment. Again, I was pleased for some peace and quiet,once my Mums had clumped out the apartment in their big boots. They returned a few hours later, flushed with Club Med free wine, that they had naughtily bagged, on the piste,followed by honestly bought fizz to celebrate the BIG day. A duck had been purchased along with all the trimmings and we had a fab day, cooking,laughing, drinking, weeping (a little!) and saying hi to lots of friends and family, across the miles, through various means.
I hope you all had a wonderful Christmas time, too and are looking forward to seeing in the New Year. I know we are, though apparently, I’ll be doing it with two West Highland White Terriers and a black Schnauzer!!!!!
What a wonderful time you all had! It’s been great reading Pete’s bog and the photos have been marvellous. Merry Christmas one and all!!
hi pete sounds wonderful .i think i would be joining you on your peaceful sleeps whilst your mums were sking in that cold white stuff.roll on spring thats what i say.see you march xxx