Buona Sera!

Bologna was my first taste of Italy -and I can tell you, it well and truly whetted my appetite. Our first stop – in Bologna – was by the roadside, in order to chuck everything out of the roofbox into the car,so that when we arrived at our apartment we could quickly remove said box, as we were too tall to fit into the garage that came with the accommodation – the equivalent of gold dust! It all went swimmingly, despite the traffic chaos outside, as school was out, just as we arrived. Meant we could join in and double park with the best of ‘em. The apartment was lovely – clean, huge, comfortable and with a myriad of options, upon which I could slumber of an evening..as well as my Mums’ bed. MJ & MN were particularly excited about the washing machine & dishwasher!🙄
The hosts of the AirB&B had left a whole plethora of information about the local area and the centre of the city – a mere 15 min stroll between them. Supplies were in order and so we chose the nearest of the supermercatos on the list – Verdura. It was like a “Little Waitrose” meets “Wholefoods” and there was much swooning from my Mums. But the best bit – take note, John Lewis Partnership! – was that I was allowed in!! Yes, indeed, I could choose my own pollo and formagi. Fabulous.
Bologna is a city in which to stroll, and it would be handy if you’re an owl as there is so much to see that you’re constantly looking up and around at the stunning architecture, the local produce in beautiful food and wine stores or touching lots of beautiful clothes in small ,independent boutiques( the latter I have way too much experience of, but it keeps my Mums happy!). MN came away with two items and we vowed to return when our visitors arrived….
And arrive, they did. Although the first words aimed at me was that “I looked well…”, and we all know that that is not so secret code for “Jeezus, you fat BSTD!” (In truth, we’ve all probably got a little bit better prepared for winter – if you get my drift!). Still, despite that, was brilliant to see my Keele Aunties and Uncle Ab-associate (AA)! It made for more people with whom to play ball when I wasn’t charming the good folk of Bologna into playing with me in the various piazzas – Maggiore, being my favourite.

10/10 for ball – when the balloons aren’t there!

We climbed the Asinelli Tower-some 500 steps up a very steep and narrow staircase. Well, I say, climbed – I was like the Maharajah of Bologna as I was carried up and down by MN and Uncle AA.

Team Bologna!

Very comfy. We had booked into Il Ciacco for dinner the day of their arrival – a place visited by Mr.R.Stein on his Long Weekend to Bologna. Again, such a civilised country that there were no qualms about a table for 6 – me included! Because of this though, our table was on it’s own, at street level, whilst the rest of the diners were downstairs. At first, there was some consternation about lack of atmosphere, and then MJ asked the Maîtr’D, who happened to be one of the owners, about said Mr.Stein. A switch was flipped and Stefano effused about our favourite Cornish chef, the food his own wonderful restaurant produces and our genuine interest and passion in eating it! The chef who was there when Mr.Stein visited,and had cooked for us, came out of the kitchen and obligatory pix were taken. A memorable evening, all round.

Me with Mr Stein’s chef

The next day we met at the Keele Girlie apartment in the centre of the city for brekkie and then proceeded to wander the streets, stopping for refreshment, the best pizza ever at Console & Co (aided by 1.5 litres of prosecco)!; more Girlie shopping in the same boutique (though surely my Mums should’ve got commission, rather than my Aunties getting discount on their purchases!?). I was quite relieved when they decided to leave me at the centrico apartment, whilst they went out for dinner. Though I did miss out on champagne and a very groovy bar where the olds managed to grab a table, consume much rosé, red and limoncello, whilst sharing their mutual love of Bologna. It was home-time, they mistakenly thought, when they spied a packed out side street and went to investigate. It was like Shoreditch – apparently. Well, being a bearded hipster myself, Uncle AA came to get me and more refreshment was consumed,as I charmed the local Italian students frequenting the joint.

Saturday night hipster

The walk home was buzzy and mainly involved MN and MJ being resolute not to stop for yet another nightcap. For once, they succeeded!

The last day with our visitors involved a very long walk through the city and then up to a big church on a hill ( there are a LOT of these in Italy that MJ feels duty bound to visit!), accessed through 666 porticos. All I know is that it was blooming hot, and I almost had a paddy on the way down and refused to move, I was so shattered. A well placed treat encouraged me on..
Sadly, it was then time to bid “arriverderci”to our visitors, who had kindly brought lots of goodies for me, including an Advent calendar! And some essentials for my Mums – mainly tea!
We then headed to my favourite Piazza to meet my Mums’ Italian teacher for the next week – Signor Andrea. He was a very cool cat who seemed to like me and got on well with my Mums. He would come to our apartment each day for two hours and I would always forget that he wasn’t there to play ball, but to help my Mums get by,a bit better, when in Italia. I stayed on the bed in the adjoining room and think I learnt lots, too! Bellissimo!

Studio Italiano con Andrea!

On our last night in Bologna, we went to La Prosciutteria for drinks and then to another fine restaurant, La Teresina. We dined on seafood to start, then lamb and pasta. MJ had her first tiramisu, washed down with x2 limoncello whilst MN had more wine. The best bit was that the limoncello was free!
I get the feeling that I will play ball again in Bologna – MN wants to live there,and MJ was very taken with it, too. The welcome I had from all was astonishing, and Italian furries are much friendlier than their French counterparts. And not so much poop letft on the streets…ugh! Non Dirty Barstewards!!!
Andiamo a Toscana! I had heard some whispering about my lovely, if sometimes, annoying, big, little sister, Betty…and so it came to pass. There we were, keeping to the speed limit on the autostrada, when who should come flying past us but Betty and her Dads!! My Mums couldn’t believe it and there was much squealing. The great thing was that it meant we all arrived at Il Baciarino, in Vetulonia, together.

Team Toscana!

My Mums had organised provisions for the weekend so we didn’t have to find shops, etc and the hosts of our two stone cassettas on a Tuscan hillside welcomed us warmly, and with organic wine! Was a sure fire bet they were going to enjoy this experience. And there was Betty! It was incredible to meet her in such a remote place, so far from our homes in the UK. Aaaaah – must be getting soft in my old age!
My Mums’ husbands had driven from the UK, and been challenged by closed tunnels through the Alps and closed (booked) hotels but they had enjoyed their rally driving experience to meet up with us. Outside cooking was the unusual facility of the cassettas but the time of year didn’t adversely affect this, at all.

Husband Mark &MJ in the cucina

Only one night we had to eat indoors as it was just too windy. So, throughout the week, we dined on BBQ’d steak, pasta and Ragu, formaggi, prosciutto, courgette flowers and a variety of vino ranging in price from €1.79-€5+!!! One of the main challenges of the outdoor culinary experience was dealing with the resident cat, or Ninja as she was deservedly named. Betty and Gattos have an interesting relationship -and theirs was no different. If Ninja wasn’t using Betty’s face as a scratching post, she was trying to lead her off the hillside,and succeeded in leading Betty into some barbed wire. Ouch!!! Luckily, nothing too injurious. Me? I conjured up the courage to sort of chase Ninja a few times, but never with the absoluteness of Betty. Consequently, Ninja tried to make friends with me, but I was just too wary (being scarred by a Bond Villain cat in Hove!!).

Face Off!!

The other wildlife residing at Il Baciarino were two adorable donkeys, Gina and Stella, with whom my Mums fell head over heels, in love.

Gina and Stella xx

They would visit each morning and evening – some might say, for food, but am sure it was the sparkling repartee and vino-soaked banter from the 4 humans! Not!
We visited two seaside towns in Tuscany. Castiglione della Pescia had a beautiful old town, teeming with character and authenticity. Marina de Grosseto did not. Nor did it have the main ingredient of the tuna salad MJ ordered for lunch..when questioned, (in pigeon Italian!) the waitress merely shrugged and advised they’d run out of the tuna….she just hadn’t thought to mention that when MJ ordered the tuna salad! You could hear MJ’s face from Rome! Again, it was pointed out that MJ wouldn’t be paying the price for said salad, as said salad had not, in fact, arrived!
The highlight of our Tuscan sojourn was our 24 hours, or so, in Siena. The humans were very excited and I could see why. It was breathtakingly beautiful – all those people to play ball with on the Piazza del Campo. Wonderful! Finding the Parcheggio was a little more problematic and Husband S (HS) mistakenly drove into the central, controlled zone that you need a permit for. If the fine comes, it may be as much as €100!!! Fingers crossed they take pity on the poor foreigners! HS and MN then managed to find free parking, which was a relief, whilst MJ and Husband M (HM) took me, Betty and our bags to the very central apartment they had booked.
It was then time for exploring, and again, we had excellent inside information about places to eat in Siena from our AirBnB host. We strolled and took many pix of the beautiful buildings. MJ and HS took me n Betty to a bar, whilst MN & HM walked up the Torre de Maggia ( was the others’ turn the next day, without us pooches either time,alas). We dined that evening at L’Osteria, local to our abode. The encouraging thing was that we had to wait an hour for a table, which meant some pre-yumminess refreshment on the Piazza del Campo. The experience at L’Osteria was fantastic – fresh pasta in garlic sauce, wild boar stew and polenta, pear & pecorino with honey,and local vino rosso…we were the last to leave..
Next morning I had one of the best ball playing sessions in the Piazza del Campo, charming adults and children alike – I was a bit disappointed when MJ and HS came back from their sightseeing!

Me and MN playing ball in the shadow of the tower!

Then there was time for Boy shopping, another excellent recommendation of “Bobbe and Davide” for lunch and then it was time to head back to our hill-top town of Vetulonia. En route, we stopped at the supermercato in nearby Grillo, for essential provisions – gin, chicken,etc, and us furries stayed in the car with MN. The hunter-gatherers returned with their purchases,and we made ready to drive the 5km home…except that HS somehow hadn’t noticed the car that had devilishly parked behind him, without him even seeing it! The Merc gently kissed the battered VW – and there in the rear view parking camera was the number plate hanging off said VW…My Mums were hysterical, but luckily, the young Italian lady who eventually returned to her licence-plate-less vehicle then had it repaired by HS, himself. What a charmer!
Our last day was spent in and around the cassettas, apart from MN & HM taking Betty & I to the beach again – my favourite place.

I won! Of course!

And it was brilliant en route back when Betty and I got left in the car (with windows open) whilst the humans did more shopping to take back to the UK, as we could rub our sandy fur all over HS’s car so he didn’t feel like he missed out on the experience! And then dinner – we had booked to have dinner cooked for us by Andrea, the owner of Il Baciarino ( along with his wife, Clelia). He had previously been a fisherman and so we expected pescatarian delights – and we were not disappointed. The sounds coming from the humans was quite disconcerting at times! They started with red mullet carpaccio and tuna tartare, then squid stuffed with prawns alongside lightly soya sauced fried sea bream, followed by one large fish-filled ravioli topped with octopus and fresh cherry tomatoes.

The ultimate ravioli!

MN was given formaggi whilst the others had cake, and all washed down with local organic wine and home made limoncello…. lucky Betty and I were there to lead them all home!
And so t’was time to bid our visitors Buono Viaggio, early the next day as HS had a long day of driving ahead. Much hugging ensued but thankfully, no tears this time, as we’ll all be re-united again in 7 weeks or so!

Then the Gumball Rally to the Amalfi Coast began…